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August 27, 2021 06:42 pm

The Man Preserving Endangered Colors

For Zapotec artist and weaver Porfirio Gutierrez, colour is a way to connect with his ancestors' way of life, which has sustained civilisations by living in symbiosis with nature. BBC: Back home in the village of Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, Mexico, Porfirio Gutierrez is referred to by his indigenous community as "El Maestro." In Ventura, California, where he lives now, and to the contemporary art world that he is courting, he is an artist with a mission. But for Gutierrez, the job is the same: to conserve, preserve and innovate, when necessary, generations' worth of wisdom and culture associated with the making of one thing that keeps everything interesting -- colour. But not just any colour. These colours are derived from nature, meaning that Gutierrez's charge is to discover new and old ways of plucking plants and insects straight out of the natural world and transform them into the pigments that give forth the glorious, rich, fullness of natural dyes. Bins of these dried plants and insects in Gutierrez's Ventura studio are all colours in waiting. The most unusual of them all is a shimmering silver bead-like insect called cochineal that will spend its next life as a luxurious red dye. These bugs are cultivated year after year in the same way that seeds are saved by farmers, passing environmental wisdom from generation to generation. Gutierrez cultivates his own cochineal on an impressive wall of prickly pear cactus leaves installed in his studio. The insects grow like parasites on the the leaves, consuming the cactus juice which produces carminic acid in their body cavities. When dried and ground they miraculously transform into a velvety powder and the base for a red colour. When compared with the synthetic dyes that are used today in essentially all our clothes and textiles, nature's version is almost always inexplicably better. It's the visual equivalent of a peach ripened by the tree, or a tomato baked in sunshine. Some lost part of you recognises that this is how it's supposed to be. Natural dyes are no different. Across time and cultures, we've been carpeting cave floors and dipping our jeans in dye, not because they won't otherwise function but because colour makes life's banal objects durable and our memories last longer. And if you are as blessed with knowledge as Gutierrez is, then that colour also grounds you spiritually and connects you to your ancestors' way of life -- a way of life that sustained civilisations by living in symbiosis with nature. A way of life that 500 years of colonisation has systematically erased.

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