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November 11, 2013 05:49 pm GMT

NOMOS Glashtte Tangomat GMT Review: All The Time Zones On Your Wrist, All The Time

Minimalist face set off by a narrow bezel.Among watchmakers, NOMOS Glaschtte is unique it’s a relatively young watch company at around 20 years old, but it’s also one of the few in the world to earn the distinction of being a “manufactory,” which means it builds its own movements. That combination results in some watches that are exquisitely crafted, but also relatively affordable (in high-end watch terms, since it’s still nearly $5,000). The Tangomat GMT, a recent introduction and world timer that uses one of NOMOS’ most impressive movements, fits that description perfectly, and is easily one of the best watches I’ve ever had the pleasure of wearing. Design The Tangomat GMT features the same clean lines and Bauhaus-inspired minimalism of NOMOS’ mechanical Tangente and other automatic Tangomat watches, with a self-winding NOMOS Glashtte Xi movement. The dial is a cream-coloured affair with slightly raised printed black characters, blued steel indicators and an inset small second subdial with a finely textured radial pattern. Additional dial features on this watch that are missing on other Tangomat devices are the current city window, and the home time zone display. Both are features associated with the GMT world timer functions of the watch; the city window shows you what time zone the main dial is currently displaying, and the home time zone window on the right hand side of the watch displays the current time wherever you primarily rest your head. The Tangomat GMT is one of two world timers made by NOMOS, with the other being the celebrated Zrich Weltzeit. Both watches share the same movement, which is capable of keeping time in 24 different time zones, but the Tangomat cleans things up with a city dial that’s mostly kept out of view, save for the display window. The Tangomat is more understated, with cleaner, more mathematical lines, while the Zrich Weltzeit is a bit flashier, and more modern in its angles. To me, the balance of minimalism, function and a bold, clean face make the Tangomat GMT a nearly ideal watch for general use. It’s perfect for evening wear with the black Shell Cordovan leather band it ships with, but can also work in much more casual settings, and is made even more suitable for everyday use with a brown strap. And of course, thanks to the world timer function, it’s also perfect for travel. Movement As mentioned, the Tangomat GMT carries a house-made NOMOS Glaschtte Xi

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